Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Bye Bye Namibia

2/16

One more day left in Namibia- that thought just makes me really sad. I’m not ready to leave yet. We spent the day in Walvis Bay since we didn’t have much time and went to this great restaurant that was on stilts in the lagoon. So cute. Tim got an ostrich steak and it was so good! Tasted a lot like cow but just knowing it was ostrich was pretty great haha. We just walked around, got more groceries and then hopped back on the ship. It definitely was not enough time in this place, there is so much more I want to do. People rode atv’s and went sand boarding and I would absolutely love to do all that! Plus frequent bathroom breaks would be something nice to not have to deal with on a next trip. I don’t care if you are grossed out by that, I am so open about it now.

I just loved the people. They were all so friendly, every single one of them. Even our cab driver who wasn’t a real cab driver and tried to rip us off. It’s a fascinating place. And there’s so much we didn’t see. I’m really happy we got to see two very opposing sides of it, but there is so much more. The HIV/AIDS rate is at 23% and their unemployment is extremely high too. It is a suffering place and we didn’t experience much of that besides a few kids begging on the streets. Tyler and I had a long talk about this boy who had come up to him asking for his food that he was eating for lunch and Tyler didn’t give it to him and he’s really regretting it now. We could go days without eating but this little boy probably didn’t have much longer, he probably already had been going days. If he was at the point of surrendering his pride to beg, he probably really needed that food. And it made me think about bartering with these vendors, I wouldn’t pay 200 Namibian dollars and would make them lower it to 100- that’s 10 dollars. What is that to me? But it means so much to them. I know I was getting ripped off but maybe they really needed it. And I just go spend that 10 dollars on alcohol later that night? It could have maybe gone so much further for one of them. I guess that’s just like giving to the homeless in America. You just never really know.

On a lighter note- Tyler might have been the funniest thing I’ve ever seen tonight. He was so drunk he didn’t even realize he had gotten on the ship and when we woke him up he thought he was still on his tour bus. Ah gosh we got some of it on video but it was hilarious.

Bye bye Namibia! Only a day at sea and then we’re in Cape Town, so freaking excited!
Our global studies professor told us that if you liked Namibia, you will love South Africa, and if you loved Namibia, you will be blown away by South Africa. I cannot wait. Plus tomorrow is Taco Tuesday and that means so much to this ship, we’ve been begging for it. Wahooooo

"Shit Mouth"

2/15 Swakopmund

So we got back to the ship, showered (much needed) and took a cab to Swakopmund, a German town just like 30 minutes away. It was adorable. It was right on the coast and was a beach town but with areas of cobblestone and cute buildings. We walked around and found a market with vendors selling all kinds of things made out of wood- like masks and statues and bowls- and tons of jewelry. They were so friendly but extremely aggressive- even worse than Morocco, which I didn’t think possible. Got some presents and then we walked down to the beach and walked along until we found this bar/restaurant where we were meeting friends – The Tiger Reef. So beautiful and so cool, it was right next to the water and the ground was all sand so everyone walked around barefoot. Only parts of it were covered and it was all thatched roof style and just had a bunch of picnic benches all around, it was such a great place. And we had the BEST chicken burgers with this awesome sauce and fries like none other that were covered in this Cajun seasoning. I want one so bad right now, my mouth just started watering. And the best draft beer I have ever had for 12 Namibian dollars – that’s $1.20 for a huge mug. And a classic Namibian drink is vodka and crème soda, which is bright green and so strange, but so good.

Basically, we started drinking at 6 and didn’t leave until around 1 so you can imagine how that was. The place was full of locals early on and we were able to talk with a lot of them. Plus, the girls we met up with had met some guys from South African so we talked to them for a really long time. It’s one thing to learn about the culture and the things going on while in class, but to be able to sit and ask them questions about it and see their perspective and reactions to it all was so fascinating. And the South Africans were some of the most racist people I’ve ever met- one of them hands down THE MOST racist person I’ve ever met. It was ridiculous. But we had a really long talk with them about the apartheid and the crisis in Zimbabwe and it was so interesting. The racist guy- Jeff- would tell us how he will just shoot at black people for no reason, it was insane. And we met a man that had grown up in the bush and had never seen sunglasses before. It’s those little things that really ground you.

A few of them taught me some words in Afrikaans and in Zulu, but sadly and not surprisingly I don’t remember any of them. Plus they were making fun of me because apparently I’m awful at the clicking. It was so cool to sit and talk to the locals though, they were so friendly and had the most fascinating things to say. But as it got later, more SAS people showed up and the whole dynamic changed, but still so so much fun-it was a really great night.

Albert
We met this man Albert who wanted to buy us shots and we sat and talked with him for a little while. He was from Walvis Bay and was such a nice guy. He has crippled arms and he kept saying to us how grateful he was that foreigners actually looked at him like he was a normal person, which wasn’t the case with people in Namibia. He was so passionate about how nice we were and how much we smiled and how we longed for a romantic man who will treat us right. We kept responding with of course, how could we not want that and be like that and he kept responding with the that’s not the case here- the woman here aren’t like that. And he repeated over and over that he could never find a woman that loved him for who he was and he couldn’t leave because he didn’t have the money to do so. I think this sounds like he was hitting on us, but he wasn’t at all. I can’t explain well enough the things he was saying and the passion behind it all. It was really sad but really made me appreciate the freedom and the love I have. I don’t really have anything that holds me back, I can love anyone I want to, I can love period. I will marry a man who loves me for who I am, not for what I look like. I can leave at any point, yet I don’t even have the need to. I live a very blessed life. I have no restrictions and I have hope for my future. Albert had no hope. He knew this was his life and it could never change. We take so much for granted and we complain about our lives in the silliest ways- we have no reason to complain or to be unsatisfied with life. Albert made a really big impression on me.

Basically, I love Swakopmund and cannot wait to go back! It was the cutest town and we definitely did not have enough time there.

Camping in the Namib Desert

2/14 and 2/15 Camping

Happy Valentines Day! I’m in Africa…what the heck! We had a diplomatic briefing when we got to the port and right after we all ran out to the decks facing the dock to see the young girls choir that was there to greet us. Oh my gosh. I was crying. It was incredible. There were probably twenty of them, all dressed in traditional African dresses and were singing and dancing for us. They were precious and so full of life and you could tell they were thrilled to be performing for us. I just found out that they live about four hours away and this was the first time that most of them had ever seen the ocean! It was so powerful and finally hit me that I was actually in Africa. It was one of the best parts of this trip.

We headed out to walk around Walvis Bay and ate lunch at this cute café outside- we had a burger and a coke for 3 bucks, the exchange is awesome. It’s a pretty small town so there wasn’t much to do but we did find a grocery store to stock up on snacks. It’s really interesting to see 730 students take over a small town. After lunch we walked back to the ship to take off on our camping and star gazing adventure. An hour and a half later, after a 4x4 drive along the coast and then inland past dunes and sand and cliffs, we arrived at our campsite in the middle of the Namib Desert. There were about 70 of us total so our campsite consisted of 35 tents, 2 people in each, that outlined our site in an L shape, a cliff acting as the other border and inside of it were two areas for campfires and a large tent with tables for dinner. But I have to explain more. This wasn’t squat without toilet paper and rough it up camping- this was much more luxurious. The tents had two beds, yes serious beds, with a duvet and sheets, the dinner tables were covered in linen cloths and plates and silverware. We had a staff who picked up after us and a bar with alcohol. It was kinda ridiculous.

We didn’t have anything planned so we hiked up to the top of a cliff right on the other side of our site. It’s hard to get used to being in the desert and seeing absolutely no green but it was really cool. And we had absolutely no plans which at first is hard to handle because on the boat and at port we have constant activities so you feel like just sitting around is boring but it was great to just sit and relax and just be. And we only really knew two other people in our group so we had a chance to just sit and talk and get to know people really well- the more trips we go on, the more people we meet and the smaller the ship feels. So we just sat around and played cards and talked the whole afternoon and then around dinnertime a local band came to play for us. It was 5 guys, probably our age, and they played the drums in some songs and others they just sang acapella, it was incredible. They had great voices and had little choreographed dances, I feel like they are an African boy band. One of them was very attractive, it was great- We’ve been missing out on looking at beautiful faces (there just aren’t very many attractive men on this boat). They sang to us for about an hour and after we went to talk to them and someone asked them something about songs they knew that we would know and they sang the Gladiator song. Holy cow, it was amazing- It gave me chills.

Dinner was all local Namibian dishes- we had some strange pasta, potatoes, rice and lamb stew- it was really different but so delicious. Ohhh my and the desert he called “pudding” but it wasn’t what we think of as pudding- it was more like a mushy cake that was really sweet and there was a cream to pour on top. It was amazing, I want the recipe. Oh and there was salad, which we were told not to eat lettuce or any fruits or vegetables unless they were cooked, but I think we all just assumed these would be okay since it was such a nice trip… but no. I think our entire group got sick. But luckily it didn’t hit Perez and I until after we got back to the ship the next day so we didn’t have to deal with it while in the middle of the desert. It’s funny how open you are about that kind of stuff when you are traveling with people. The rest of the night was spent around the campfire just talking and sharing stories. Namibia is the best place for star gazing in the world so we were stoked to be going on this trip -and guess what happens… It’s cloudy. And it is only cloudy 5-6 times a YEAR in Namibia- seriously, what are the odds? But I guess those things happen right? There was a little section where the clouds disappeared for like 10 minutes so we were able to see some stars then and it was absolutely gorgeous- more stars than I’ve ever seen. A game of never have I ever, of course, and then bed time.

We woke up at like 8 the next morning for breakfast – yogurt and granola, the yogurt could have definitely been another contributor to our sickness- and were told the vans were gonna come pick us up at 11ish so we just sat around some more and waited. Time was going by pretty slowly, none of us had showered even though we’d been sweating a lot, we didn’t get much sleep and the sun was already beating down on us. So Perez, Collin and I decided to make up this card game called Swakopmund after a town that we passed by on our way to our site. Our driver told us it literally means “shit mouth” so we thought it’d be perfect to add in an element of shouting dirty or obscene words. I’d say it’s a combination of Speed and Tourettes and is just ridiculous. 11 came around, no vans, then 12, still no vans. Luckily we had our game to keep us entertained. I can’t wait to bring it back home and teach everyone. But it also might not be as fun as we thought it was while we were stranded in the middle of the desert. 12:15 vans finally show up but there weren’t enough for all of us so a group of about 20 of us stayed behind and waited for more to come and we finally left by 12:45 I think. We were supposed to be back at the ship at 12:30- this trip really didn’t go exactly as planned but oh well, it happens!

Friday, February 13, 2009

Thankful

2/11

I went up to deck 7, the top deck, to get some alone time. There is really none of that on this ship - we are constantly surrounded by people - and it makes things hard sometimes. So here I am, escaping to sit underneath the stars and reflect. Just a single chair against the railing and in front of me is the endless sea. Above me, the stars shine with such brilliance it is breathtaking. The moon is so low to the horizon that the clouds that hover there are hiding it, but its light is spewing out of the top. The stars disappear ever so slightly as the smoke rises from our ship, but appear again as it passes. The water is so still, the ship only slightly rocking. But the wind blows persistently and with strength.
We honored the slave trade as we passed through the Middle Passage today. Some did so by staying silent the entire day, others by observing a moment of silence and reflection that night. We had an open forum to reflect on it and the twenty or so people that did not speak that day were all seated in a circle in the middle of the Union, dressed in all black, still in silence. We spent five or so minutes in silence, the entire room, with “Amazing Grace” playing on repeat, and words flashing on the screen with the history of the slave trade. And then, the silence was broken and those who had not spoken all day stood up to speak of their day and their reflections. It was so incredibly moving. At the end, we held hands and sang “Amazing Grace” together and I felt the need – and the desire – to stay silent for a while after we left. Many cried and it moved all of us to really think about our history- this is a part of us all, no matter the color of our skin. I encourage everyone to take some time, to stay silent, and to think about our history. Think as if you were the one who was pulled away from your family, from the life you know, and thrown onto a ship where you received little food and water, you couldn’t speak because no one could understand you and you feared death. Most of those crossing the Atlantic with you will die, and if you are lucky enough to make it, you are thrown into the property of a stranger and forced to work. Your liberty, your freedom, your dignity are all stripped away. Your life is changed forever. This doesn’t even cover half of it. Take some time and honor those that endured these hard times, for this is a part of us all. And be thankful for everything that you have- never take anything for granted.

It’s weird to look out at the horizon, at the sea roaring by me, and to think that at point, there could have been a ship carrying slaves to their new lives. Here I am, looking at the ocean in awe, yet they could not have done the same.

And I am being spoiled rotten on this ship- there are people waiting on us, i never have to lift a finger. How different my experience is than what they went through- it's unbelievable.

I’m overwhelmed. That is the only word I can use to describe how I’m feeling. I’m overwhelmed. I am constantly being challenged- the life I know is being questioned; my future is being questioned- what is my purpose in this world? God is completely in the middle of it all and although I have so many questions, I know He is guiding me. I know I am finding my place in this world, in this world that is so much bigger than me, and I am so excited to know what God has in store for me. Already, although it’s only been three weeks, I know my life is changed forever. I can’t go back home and not want to make a change in this world. I’ve seen it, I’m experiencing it and I’m learning so much that I am forever changed. It’s so overwhelming and there is so much tragedy and need being thrown at me, but I am so thankful for this opportunity. I don’t deserve any of this; God is blessing me in so many ways. I can’t say thank you enough. Thank you to God, thank you to my parents! I can’t believe I am here. Thank you.

Be The Change You Wish To See In The World

2/10

Okay so Global Studies was fascinating today. We learned about Zimbabwe and the crisis going on there- the woman doing the lecture was born and raised in Zimbabwe before moving to the States- I didn’t realize anything that was/is going on there. I knew there was some type of corrupt government issues with the elections happening recently but I had no idea the extent of it all. I will have to write about it again when I have my notes in front of me so I can write down exact details but there is a huge inflation rate and people are having to flee to South Africa or Zambia. The water is completely poisonous and is causing cholera to spread. There are basically no more schools or hospitals, even though at one point Zimbabwe was flourishing with fantastic institutions- the teachers pay more for a bus fare to get to the school than their salary would pay them so they had to stop going- most people couldn’t make it to their jobs because of this- so the schools and the hospitals fell apart. We saw a picture of a cholera clinic and it showed upturned buckets with a slab laid across them as beds. That’s it. The country is in extreme poverty and disarray.

Okay, now I have my notes. In 1980 when Mugabe took office, he was the Nelson Mandela of his time, he had no animosity and kept whites in his government. He brought hope for the continent, he brought calm and peace, and Zimbabwe was the bread basket of Africa. At this time, the Zimbabwe dollar was equal to the US dollar. But then disaster struck. In 2000, the inflation rate rose well above 231 million % annually. Unemployment reached 80% and 1/3 of the population fled across the border to South Africa or Zambia. A lot of the population was actually driven off the land by the government because it seems Mugabe wanted to depopulate his land, mostly of the poor people. Inflation rose so high that higher and higher bills were being created, one million, ten million, one billion, one hundred billion notes. Ten billion Zimbabwe dollars bought 20 loaves of bread at one point, and three weeks later, that same amount bought less than half a loaf. We were shown a picture of 100 billion Zimbabwe dollars set next to 3 eggs- this is how much these eggs cost. Then in August 2008, as inflation still got higher and higher, we were shown a picture of a huge pile of bills, like there had been a bank robbery, next to four tomatoes. In January 2009, inflation had reached 89.9 sextillion %. Have you even ever heard of sextillion? I haven’t. It is 10 to the 21st power. This made Zimbabwe the first country in the 21st century to hyperinflate, meaning inflation rate tops out at a minimum of 50% per month. After July 2008, they just stopped counting because it was rising too much. January of 2009, the 100 trillion note was launched. Yes, trillion. This was beyond belief, no one could cope anymore. This is when people stopped going to work because bus fares were costing more than their salary. Awful. The Unity government is to be inaugurated this week and Tsuangirai (is that the right spelling? I hope) is to be the prime minister. Mugabe will remain President, as he refuses to step down. After all he has done to this country, after the high hopes for him (they thought he would be another Nelson Mandela) and the extreme let down -and he refuses to step down. Yet, the country won’t do anything. They are too peaceful to riot, they assume that things will just approve and they don’t seem to try and fight it. And the rest of Africa has paid no attention and has not done anything but sit back and watch. The South African President has finally recognized they need to help, at least financially, proposing to make the South African Rand the common currency but Mugabe has not accepted yet. Desmond Tutu doubts the unity government will work and believes the only solution is to get rid of Mugabe. He is calling the community to use a “threat of force” to get him to step down. But will they?

It’s just awful. We freak out when the US unemployment rate is above, what, like 4%? And here it reached 80%, if not higher. And we complain when the gas prices rise a dollar, when inflation rises a little, but we have no idea. It’s so sad. And it made me really frustrated that I hadn’t heard of this before. How does that happen? How is it that the world is going through so much, suffering through so many different things, and we are not taught it? I feel like I do a pretty good job of searching for world news and trying to keep up, although I don’t seek it out as much as I should, but I still can’t come across something this awful. I just don’t understand why it’s so hard to hear about this. Why isn’t this made a bigger deal? But I could probably say that about so many other things happening. I could say the same thing about Darfur. Or how about Namibia? We were learning about its history and learned about a genocide that killed 250,000-300,000 people. Did yall know about that? Have you ever learned about that? Because I sure haven’t and I am blown away. I was legitimately angry.

This is what I wrote in my art class after I left Global Studies on the day we learned about the Namibian genocide:

“I am really angered by the fact that I have never learned about a genocide that killed 250,000-300,000 Africans in Namibia – nothing ever taught about that. Why? Why don’t we learn these things? I’ve learned about the colonization of Africa, why couldn’t they teach us about this genocide? I am seriously angry, it’s just not right. Isn’t this something we should learn about?
Maybe I did learn it at once but I don’t remember. If this is the case why wasn’t it made to be a bigger deal? I can’t remember, even when I’ve been talking about Namibia for months, and it doesn’t trigger any kind of memory of a genocide- it’s like the genocide going on right now, how long did it take for us to know about it? Does everybody even know about it yet? Why are these things not a bigger deal? Why do we treat them like they don’t matter to us? We learn about things when less people die- what makes those so much more important to us? Why can’t we learn about genocides- they are so important and such a big part of history? And this one is considered the 1st genocide of the 20th century and of the research I did on Namibia before coming on SAS, why didn’t I read about it? Or why didn’t someone know about it when I mentioned I was going there? It just boggles my mind and I am really bothered by it. I just don’t understand why these types of things are hidden from us. And how long until they do matter and we try to help, try to stop it? How long do we continue to let genocide happen while we are alive? Why is it still happening in Africa right now? It makes no sense at all. And I am so angry. I can’t understand why things are the way they are. How do we sit back and let that happen? When do we get involved? How long do we wait before it’s gone too far, it’s become too much? Hasn’t it gone too far already? It’s ridiculous, it really is. And it just pisses me off that we don’t care. Some do, but it’s obviously not enough. And here I am, doing nothing also. I can’t rely on someone else to get it started or to make all the changes. I need to start with me. What can I do? I need to figure it out. I CAN do that. If I’m this angered by it, I have to do something.”

There are so many unanswered questions and I ranted for a good while but you get my point. Now it’s time for a change.

Just The Equator, No Big Deal...

2/10

Tyler and I went up to the deck today but it started raining! You’d think on a day we’re passing the equator it’d be all sun, but nooo. I guess this is why they chose to have Neptune Day the day before- so smart.

It poured but luckily it passed pretty quickly and the sun was out by the time we finished lunch. They made an announcement that we were moving at 25 knots and using all 4 engines at 85% and will probably reach 30 knots! We are on the fastest cruise ship in the world, weird huh? Perez HAD to point out that “What was the last fastest cruise ship in the world that used all their engines” oh right, Titanic, thank you! Luckily we’re at the Equator and not somewhere that would have icebergs right? When we went on the bridge tour, the man up there said he had never seen the ship use all 4 engines- I guess we are since the water is so calm. But they said to go look off the back of the ship because water is just shooting out and while we were out there we looked up to see a FULL rainbow circling the sun! It was absolutely amazing and our executive dean, who has been on many voyages, said he hasn’t ever seen anything like that before. It stayed for probably 5 or so minutes before fading away, I wanna know why this happens, it was so incredible! But the sun is out and it’s another hot, hot day!

We crossed the Equator around 3:15!! My first time ever to be in the Southern Hemisphere! It was so nice out, we laid out by the pool all day, but I guess being on the Equator has its drawbacks and my back got way burnt- whoopsies. Tyler Johnson might be my favorite person ever- and my new bestie. We are practically attached at the hip, he’s just amazing.

Themed pub night tonight- Decades. Tyler and I piled on all the tie dye and peace signs I own – which is quite a lot – and Perez donned her Captains hat and sailor attire and went as 1912, the year of the Titanic. She’s always so creative. And I think her mind is just permanently set on the Titanic. Dressing up always makes things more fun, who knows why.

Happy Neptune Day!

2/9

Are we really in school right now? We woke up this morning to people banging drums and blowing whistles up and down our hallway- we went outside to see that it was the crew, dressed up with shields and swords and aluminum foil wrapped around their heads. The first words out of Perez’s mouth as we laid their in bed, drums getting louder as they neared our room and then fading as they trotted up the stairs, “what a weird school we go to”. And how true it is. So, so weird. We were summoned, seriously summoned- the “voice” (the man who does all the announcements) called us “pollywogs” to the top deck- where we had to be “initiated” in order to pass the equator. The captain and some lady were covered in green paint and dressed up as the King and Queen of the Sea and the crew all had on strange white smocks and the same green paint covered parts of their bodies. All 730 of us gathered around the pool, yelling “aye” as we agreed to the many parts of our initiation- we were all to step into the mini pool to get “fish guts” and green slime poured onto us, then to kiss a fish, kiss the kings ring and then finally jump into the pool. Another tradition as part of this initiation is to shave your head, although it is definitely optional. A lot of guys did it and even a good number of brave girls- pretty impressive. So all morning we watched as people lost their hair, hung out on the top deck with music playing and the sun beating down on us. It felt just like a vacation. It was a day of relaxation. As we neared the equator, it got hotter and hotter laying by the pool, but felt so good to be out of the cold weather!

And we had a bbq! Hamburgers and ribs and hot dogs and corn and ice cream sundaes out on the top deck! Ahhh so good! And fresh fruit- everyone was in heaven! We hadn’t had food on the ship like this ever! It was a big treat.

Sorry to say this, I don’t want to offend anyone, but we kept saying how this day felt like a big middle finger to Pepperdine’s International Programs. We just feel like we are so meant to be here, although we were once so bitter and upset about not being able to go with Pepperdine. It’s a really great feeling to experience how well it has worked out. I just can’t believe this is really school, how is it possible?

Desmond Tutu’s former PA is on the staff on the ship and gave a talk about his life and what he has done, what an incredible man-he has such an inspiring spirit. He is a huge fan of SAS and has taught here on one of the past voyages (so jealous) so he usually gets on the ship on as many voyages as he can but she said he’ll be out of town when we get to Cape Town. I am so bummed, how amazing would it be to talk to Desmond Tutu! I think he needs to postpone his trip.

What’s funny is that we didn’t even pass the equator today haha I’m not really sure why they decided to celebrate it when we weren’t even doing it? I think we might be behind schedule or something- we stopped in Dakar, Senegal to get gas a couple days ago and I think we were there longer than we were supposed to be. We were docked next to this island that was used during the slave trade, it was pretty crazy to see the evidence from a time like that.

But we are just cruising through the Atlantic once again, traveling along the coast of Africa. School routine has set in again- we have a while on this ship before we reach Namibia. Luckily, the water is super calm, we are barely rocking and the weather is absolutely beautiful. It’s nice to be home again.